Potosi argent abundance in Bolivia was set up by the Spanish with
bondservant labour in 1545. 465 years has not apparent a abundant
advance in alive conditions.
A appointment to the abundance begins at the bounded bazaar in the town.
Here you can buy appurtenances to advice the miners in their work. For
10 Bolivianos (1 pound) you can buy them 2 litres of soda and a
abounding packet of coca leaves. If you want, you can aswell buy them
cigarettes (made from marijuana), booze (96% proof) or sticks of
dynamite, fuses or nitrates to accomplish the access added powerful.
The mines of Potosi boss the surroundings. They are amid on the Cerro
Rico (rich mountain) which rises up some 600m just aloft the outskirts
of the town. The mines acquire provided abundance and assets to the
boondocks for about 500 years, and the abundance itself is included in
religious paintings from colonial times, depicted as the centre of the
world.
The abundance circuitous sprawls up the ancillary of the
mountain:ramshackle corrugated adamant shacks, a few aces up trucks and
4WD jeeps, and mounds of bits accumulated high. These are the alien
signs of the plan which takes abode within.
Although the mines are alleged cooperatives, it is absolutely alone the
arrangement of tunnels that is endemic in common. The miners and pit
workers do not allotment the profits of the mine. Anniversary miner
works for himself, accepting a authorization to abundance anywhere he
thinks ability prove profitable. Generally miners plan in teams:
ancestor and son, brother with brother. 3% of the workers there are now
women.
If a assisting bond is activate again the miner may subcontact others to
advice abstract the argent or added minerals for him. All raw abstracts
are again brought to the apparent and awash to cat-and-mouse trucks
from the refinery who will again yield it to the branch for purifying.
If annihilation is found, again the miners acquire no money. There are a
few waged advisers in the mines operating capital casework for the
miners. These humans are paid 6 Bolivianos (60p) an hour, for a ten hour
day.
A 18% tax is deducted from the miners´income. This is acclimated to pay
for the budget of the abundance and to accommodate them with some
anatomy of pension, bloom and amusing aegis cover. The men are
accustomed to retire at 66, admitting they may leave beforehand if they
ache from ill health.
Miners can activate plan if they choose, and plan as continued as they
crave anniversary day - admitting about they access at 8am and leave at
5pm. An old adult stands at the access to the abundance counting the
miners in, to ensure that there is some almanac of how abounding humans
are central in the draft of an accident.
Although some 8 actor disciplinarian (African and aboriginal Indians)
died in the mines in the time that they were run by the Spanish,
casualties in the mines today are about rare. These are usually cases of
carbon monoxide poisoning.
Far added accustomed are the aboriginal afterlife and bloom accompanying
issues affecting the lungs. Asbestos and added adverse silicates action
by itself in the mines, and the atmosphere is aswell blubbery with dust
from the mining activities.
Entry into the mines is via a simple aperture carved into the ancillary
of the mountain. The mines amplitude down some 150m - a abounding depth,
but not abundant to accreditation the use of lifts, so all advance have
to be fabricated on foot.
A attenuated set of balustrade lies forth every access for the wagons
which move abstracts about the mines. A absolutely laded wagon weighs
2.5 tonnes and is pulled by a aggregation of four men. Advance downwards
is easy, as the men generally just sit central and let the wagon cycle
by itself forth the affable slopes. Admitting the affective wagon is
about absurd to stop, and there is about no amplitude amid its bend and
the adit walls.
Upward movement, however, is apathetic even with an unloaded truck. At
one date in the visit, it was all-important for several associates of
the accumulation to accompany in with the men to move the wagon up a
decidedly abrupt breadth of track.
The passageways in the mines themselves are narrow: stooping low is
appropriate at all times, even in the about abounding sections. A lot of
of the time, it was all-important to airing forth bisected squatting;
and in some sections the alone advantage was to clamber forth easily and
knees.
Pipes run throughout the passageways, frequently bridge them from one
ancillary to the added authoritative the beam even lower. These pipes
were to accommodate oxygen to the abundance arrangement and served three
purposes: to accommodate oxygen to the centermost areas breadth it was
about non existent, the accommodate accustomed blast to the passageways,
and to accord oxygen to some of the accouterment that operated in the
mines.
Occasionally it was accessible to apprehend the hiss of the oxygen from
the pipes as it was appear into the tunnels nearby. Even in these areas
the air acquainted abundant and thick, as they were far abroad from the
entrances to the mines and any antecedent of accustomed oxygen.
When because oxygenation in the mines is should not be abandoned that
Potosi is the accomplished city-limits in the apple at 4200m aloft sea
level, and the mines themselves afterpiece to 4600m - alone just beneath
the acme of Mont Blanc. Even outside, the atmosphere alone contains
about bisected the oxygen accessible at sea level.
During the appointment into the mines, which lasted about 2 hours, it
was accessible to accommodated with several of the humans who formed
there and allocution with them.
The aboriginal was the oldest man in the mine. He was now 60 and had
formed there for the endure 30 years. We were told that this was
aberrant - a lot of men alone formed there in their 20s and 30s. If
asked how continued he would abide to plan in the abundance he replied
that he would break until he was 70 unless he was afflicted out
beforehand by ill health.
At present he was resting, for he was cat-and-mouse for the men to
acknowledgment with the loaded wagons, so these could be emptied into a
abounding basked to carriage the rocks up to the surface.
Another man was alive abroad in a baby alcove chiseling out a baby
alcove for his stick of dynamite. It was hot in this lower arena of the
mine, and he sweated as he again banged the blade into the bedrock aloft
his head. It was about absurd to ability him, for he was hidden abroad
abaft a abounding accumulation of bits and a board wheelbarrow, on the
far ancillary of a broad 1m aboveboard aperture in the ground.
The bang sticks are small, and alone draft abroad a baby breadth of
rock. The fuses are set to about 3-4 minutes. In an accessible amplitude
this provides abounding time to get a far ambit abroad from the
explosion; but in the awkward borders of the mines, it is not accessible
to move a abundant ambit in this time. It was accessible to see
abounding marks in the walls from breadth antecedent explosions had been
made.
After a few annual the man came out and said that he was done for the
day. He had accustomed at the abundance at 4am, and had formed for about
8hrs or so. The bang would be set the afterward day.
He was in his mid fifties; but did not anticipate he would plan for
abundant best on annual of the bloom problems with his lungs. We gave
him some of the abstract and coca leaves which he was actual admiring
with. A brace of humans had aswell bought cigarettes at the market, and
he appropriately accustomed a packet of these also.
A third man was sitting in what anesthetized as the blow breadth of the
mine. If I asked him what he was mining for, he replied that as
able-bodied as searching for silver, he hoped to acquisition topaz back
this was a actual admired mineral.
The men reside on about annihilation but coca leaves, and are always
chewing them from a abounding bag. They account on accepting through 3
accoutrements a day. The coca prevents fatigue, suppresses appetence and
provides energy.
The coca seems to serve aswell as a cure for all ills. We were told that
admitting the bulk of dust and asbestos in the air the miners did not
charge masks, back the coca leaves served as a filter. One of the
accumulation afflicted her adenoids if banging into the low ceilings -
and a coca blade was anon activated to the afflicted atom to aloof the
affliction and stop the swelling.
Making our way out of the mines, we aswell anesthetized by the bronze of
Theo - a beyond than activity admeasurement board representation of the
devil which served as a acceptable luck attribute for the miners.
They had adopted the amount of the devil in the time of the Spanish
occupation. The Spanish had told them that Jesus and God disqualified
over the apple of ablaze on the apparent of the earth, but that the
abyss and all beneath the apparent was the branch of the devil. Back
they formed beneath arena it was not appropriate that they should
attending to God, but acquire their abode a part of the aggregation of
the devil.
Each day the miners abode a afire cigarette and a coca blade in the
aperture of this devil as an alms for acceptable luck. On Fridays they
aswell accord him alcohol: a bead on his aperture for thirst, a bead on
anniversary bend of his anatomy for the four credibility of the compass,
and a bead on his penis for fertility. It is important to use the
purest anatomy of booze accessible back this will ensure that alone the
purest minerals and gems are found.
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